Date of publication 31/07/2017
City tourism Ten plans for returning to Madrid
Because the second visit to the capital can be better than the first
The capital of Spain is one of those metropolises that lives in constant hustle, endless stimulation, and cultural excitement. Often, more than one visit is needed to penetrate its royal and monumental façade and be captivated by its playful, welcoming, and highly inspiring spirit. Returning does not mean repeating the destination. It is rather a fun and necessary exercise to take away a genuine imprint that goes beyond postcards, clichés, and the nostalgic Movida.
Unexpected museums
On a first visit to a hotel in Madrid, it’s natural to be amazed by 'Guernica' at the Reina Sofía, moved by Impressionism and Post-Impressionism at the Thyssen, and discover the secrets of 'Las Meninas' at the Prado Museum. But beyond the well-known Art Walk, the capital hides other spaces ranging from the must-see architecture-exhibition combo at CaixaForum to the best Spanish and international fashion retrospective at the Museo del Traje, as well as the most intimate Impressionism by Sorolla at his House-Museum. Additionally, if your interest lies in Prehistory and Antiquity, the National Archaeological Museum is a must-visit, while if Street Art, video art, and underground initiatives are your thing, Tabacalera and Neomudéja await.
New (and great) gastronomic openings
The cold months in the capital become the perfect season for the opening and reinvention of restaurants aiming to captivate both locals and visitors. And although new openings are constant, many are here to stay with safe bets. This is the case of Coque (in the picture), a two-Michelin-star bistro that has moved to the city center to refresh its image without betraying its modern classics. A path also taken by Zalacaín, which, without changing locations, has revamped its interior design while keeping its famous soufflé potatoes. On the other hand, exotic and daring offerings also have their share of glory with places like Longan, the new mecca of Peking duck, El Buda Feliz 1974 (the reopening of the city’s first Chinese restaurant), or Mandioca, offering the healthiest flavors of Brazil.
Madrid Clandestino
The allure of the secret and the forbidden has also enchanted the capital with its scent of exclusivity and uncertainty. Returning to Madrid at a calmer pace allows you to explore this map of venues that disguise themselves to mislead and entice. One of the most iconic is Kikekeller, an art gallery that transforms into a cocktail bar at night. Another, Yugo the Bunker, an apparent Japanese Izakaya whose private basement hosts a members-only club of enthusiasts of Japanese cuisine led by Julián Mármol. The latest to arrive/open is Medias Puri, an apparent haberdashery that, behind its facade, hides a nightclub with shows, cocktails, and many surprises.
Exhibitions worth a trip
There are retrospectives and exhibitions that make you want to pack your bags and head to the Spanish metropolis. That’s why every cultural traveler takes into account the schedules of the city’s main museums, visiting them beyond their permanent collections. In the coming dates, Madrid will be filled with Picasso and Lautrec thanks to a joint exhibition of these two popular artists at the Thyssen, will revisit Fortuny’s romantic painting at the Prado, and experience Zuloaga’s modernity at the Fundación Mapfre, as well as Art Nouveau in the frames of Alfons Mucha (in the image) at Palacio de Gaviria.
Madrid, the Christmas capital
One of the cities that best celebrates the holidays is Madrid, a metropolis that goes far beyond a few dazzling LEDs and neon lights, offering an endless variety of alternative plans to enjoy shopping, gastronomy, fun activities, and cultural experiences differently. It alternates the formality of official events with more local and traditional ones, without losing its modern touch. That’s the beauty of Christmas—there’s time for everything.
Shopping is so linked to Christmas that it almost overshadows the traditional Christmas Eve dinner. Measures are taken, such as pedestrianizing parts of streets like Gran Vía to ease busy shopping days, and after 5:30 PM, Calle Preciados is one-way from Puerta del Sol to facilitate pedestrian flow.
In other districts, initiatives like Distrito 41 in the Jorge Juan area unite shops and restaurants to consolidate the area as a hub for shopping and gastronomy. This Christmas is a perfect time to discover the most exclusive fashion boutiques and gourmet restaurants.
For holiday-specific shopping, like Christmas decorations, shops such as Pippa’s in Plaza de las Salesas offer original and customizable options. Must-visit Christmas markets include the Mercado de Diseño with its Xmas Fun editions and concerts by emerging bands like Joe la Reina or Colectivo Primavera. And, of course, the classic Plaza Mayor Christmas market is ideal for starting the tradition of nativity scenes.
Madrid is synonymous with fine dining and gastronomy, so visiting the Feria de la Artesanía at Plaza de España is a great way to discover gourmet local gifts. For artisanal sweets, Casa Mira, the most traditional turrón shop in the city, founded in 1842, is a must. Imported panettone is also popular.
On Epiphany Day, the roscón is the star, especially those made by Alejandro Montes at Mamá Framboise patisseries. Notable novelties include edible Christmas trees filled with chocolate or Christmas-inspired ice creams like panettone, created by Rocambolesc in true Willy Wonka style.
Surprising gardens
Two clichés are broken when visiting Madrid’s green spaces. First, that they are all the same. Second, that there are hardly any novelties. This new season comes packed with fresh ideas and incentives, such as the opening of the Palacio de Capricho, now a museum focused on the personality of the Duchess of Osuna, complementing a visit to the romantic Parque del Capricho. Meanwhile, Desert City (pictured) is an initiative on the outskirts of Madrid where xerophytic plants take center stage and landscaping shows that spiky plants can also be beautiful.
Driven by sports
The question is a stimulus in itself: why not pack your running shoes? Madrid is experiencing a fantastic boom in popular races for all levels and demands, a very attractive scenario for ‘runners’ seeking a different – or rather, real – goal during their trips. From charity races to competitions with your dog, the calendar is extensive. And if your visit doesn’t coincide with any event, Madrid Río (pictured) or the Retiro Park are always great places to stretch your legs surrounded by heritage. Ah! And for football fans, the thrill of watching a match at the brand-new Wanda Metropolitano Stadium goes beyond the team colors.
The other traces
Sundays at Cascorro are one of those traditional rituals among antique stalls and vintage vendors. However, in recent years, the city has been filled with chic alternatives to its most popular flea market, highlighting two initiatives. The first is the Design Market, a periodic event that fills the Matadero with products from national designers and artisans, accompanied by food trucks and lively concerts. The second, the Motor Market, a display of original products and curious shops in a unique space: the railway museum. Just for this mix of alternative fashion and locomotives, it’s worth visiting over the weekend.
Focus on the stage
The closest thing to Broadway in Spain has always been the Gran Vía. Here, large stores alternate with the busiest theaters where shows and musicals dominate the billboards. Among them, The Lion King has become the must-see show, attracting large audiences and filling the Lope de Vega Theater for the past 6 years. Rivaling this classic, the Teatro Coliseum features El Guardaespaladas, while the Teatro Nuevo Apolo (the other musical temple on Jorge Juan Street) premieres Billy Elliot with Elton John’s music entertaining multiple generations. Other essential programs include the smart millennial picks at Teatro Lara, juggling and concerts at the Price, the complex works of La Abadía, and the measured risks at the Naves del Español.
Behind the scenes
Gradually, Madrid is beginning to fall in love with itself, recognizing itself as a mecca of 20th-century architecture and promoting visits centered on this achievement. Each year, COAM and the City Council organize Architecture Week, during which, in addition to talks and lectures, some of the city's most emblematic buildings are opened and explained to the public. Throughout the rest of the year, companies like Madrides offer guided tours that teach visitors to fairly and critically appreciate some buildings camouflaged by everyday routine (such as Gimnasio Maravillas or the IBM building) while presenting other creations, like CaixaForum, as true works of art.
Sunset guide
The close relationship between city and sky has fueled myths such as Madrid having the most beautiful sky in the world. A hyperbole that is hard to dispute but highlights the spectacular nature of its natural vault. That’s why watching it at its most magical moment, as the sun sets, is like observing a work of art. Even more so when this celestial show is enjoyed in places as special as the Temple of Debod or Cerro del Tío Pío Park, the epicenter of alternative picnics in the city.
