Date of publication 23/08/2019
It’s not Norway; it’s Montenegro! Kotor, the sun-drenched fjord
The coastline of Montenegro seems to have been drawn with a ruler, as if nature itself had used a set square and compass. Yet suddenly, the Adriatic defies logic and playfully slips between the Dinaric Alps, carving out landscapes of striking beauty and contrast, where the distance between sky and water is measured in mountain peaks. A unique fjord within the Mediterranean basin, shaped by both nature and the refined touch of humankind — villages, cities, and monasteries nestled against steep slopes, home to some of Europe’s most exquisite hotels. It’s no wonder that this blend of nature, culture, and history has earned it UNESCO World Heritage status. This is Kotor, the ultimate Balkan paradise.
The charming towns scattered along the bay all share a common trait: their Venetian aesthetic. This maritime empire used this geographical anomaly as a shipyard and naval base, fortifying its settlements from top to bottom. The palaces, narrow streets, and fortifications of the capital, Kotor, recall those of Dubrovnik, particularly in their signature palette of orange rooftops, ocher stone, and turquoise water. Here, the white-stone bastions still reign supreme. The epic walls, which visitors climb in search of the perfect Instagram shot, offer an unparalleled view of the area — as do the mansions that now house exquisite restaurants.
In Kotor, sooner or later every traveler’s footsteps lead to the Cathedral of Saint Tryphon, an ancient Romanesque temple dating back to the 9th century that has gradually expanded its towers as a symbol of its grandeur. It’s hard not to spend several minutes marveling at its magnificence. The route then continues to other remarkable landmarks, such as the more modern and austere Orthodox Cathedral, the Church of Our Lady of Remedy, and the Maritime Museum — an educational space housed in an old palazzo that traces the naval importance of the fjord through the ages.
Venetian splendor doesn’t always come in grand proportions. The best example is Perast, a charming little town where just 350 residents live among baroque mansions and pointed church spires. Its extraordinary density of heritage comes from its strategic frontier position; between the 17th and 18th centuries, the Venetian Empire encouraged its growth and ennobled the local bourgeoisie, creating a new social class known as the Casadas. That’s why the residences of the Sestokrilovic, Bujovic (which houses a local museum), and Balovic families rival the grand architecture of northern Italy. Its symbol is the Church of St. Nicholas — a scaled-down, unfinished version of St. Mark’s Cathedral — whose bell tower rises elegantly above the orange rooftops. When Perast isn’t charming visitors with its heritage, it captivates with its flowers, its waterfront, and its winding alleys. It could easily be a set from Game of Thrones.
Its most monumental building is the Smekja Palace, located in the heart of the coastal area of the town, now home to the Iberostar Heritage Grand Perast hotel. The palace consists of two sections: the oldest, whose construction began in 1764, stands between the coastal road and the old inland route. The newer section was started around the same time but wasn’t completed until the 1930s.
The Smekja Palace is the largest building in the tranquil town of Perast. Construction began in 1764 using exclusively stone blocks from the most prized quarry in the Venetian Empire — the island of Korčula. The palace features a ground floor, two upper stories, and a lookout tower. The first floor boasts a large terrace running the length of the façade, while the second and third floors have multiple balconies with balustrades. The entrance welcomes visitors with the heraldic insignia of the Smekja family, who commissioned the building: a hand holding the stem of a plant (“čičimak”) with stars. The newer section of the palace was completed in 1936, modeled on the existing ground and first floors, maintaining the same architectural style and materials.
As if merely adorning the coastline weren’t enough, Perast also filled the waters with Venetian jewels in the form of two spectacular islands. The first, Our Lady of the Rocks, is an artificial islet crowned by a beautiful church that has become one of the most popular excursions in this part of the bay. The second, St. George Island, is home to a namesake monastery that cannot be visited, yet its view from the water is utterly mesmerizing. Docking at its small piers or simply sailing around its perimeter over the deep blue waters turns the short voyage into a dreamlike summer escape.
Although still a lesser-known destination, Perast boasts the best-preserved ensemble of baroque architecture on the Adriatic. This string of magnificent buildings includes nearly twenty palaces and just as many Catholic and Orthodox churches. Even the Iberostar Heritage Grand Perast hotel dates back to that same era.
Tivat is now the most cosmopolitan city in the region. Its marina, known as Porto Montenegro, is the most important in the area, and it also hosts the bay’s only airport. It’s well worth strolling along its docks, marveling at the yachts that stop here, drawn by its beauty, and admiring the spectacular buildings that line the waterfront. This stunning view has earned it the nickname “the Monaco of Montenegro.” Every corner exudes the sophistication and serenity needed to enjoy an afternoon worthy of Grace Kelly — but without the paparazzi.
Located very close to the Adriatic Sea, Herceg Novi has a tropical soul that blends beautifully with the aesthetic charm of the bay. As in the other towns, rest and relaxation go hand in hand with cultural strolls through the city. It’s hard to resist the allure of the Savina Monastery, an ecumenical complex with three churches known for their frescoes and ornate iconostases. Other must-sees include its marble-like streets such as Stari Grad, the Forte Mare bastion, and the Kanli-Kula fortress, which turns into an open-air stage during the sunniest months — meaning, almost all of them.
From the Iberostar Herceg Novi hotel, you can enjoy views of one of Montenegro’s most iconic landmarks — Mount Lovcen, birthplace of the Petrovic dynasty and now a National Park.
Although it lies on the Adriatic coast, visiting the Blue Grotto is one of the most spectacular and accessible excursions from the Bay of Kotor. It’s a fascinating geological wonder — a sea cave that can be explored in many ways: swimming, by boat, kayaking, or even snorkeling. The interplay of light, color, and reflections transforms the place into a true kaleidoscope of blues. Compared to Capri, this version offers less hustle and far more nature.
Lacing up your boots and climbing any of the mountains that overlook this fjord guarantees two things: breathtaking views and a deeply rewarding day of active tourism, especially when followed by the countless ways to unwind back at the hotel. The ultimate panoramic view comes from reaching the top of Kotor’s walls and fortress, then continuing up the trail to the Lovcen National Park. This site also carries deep symbolism, as it houses the mausoleum of the poet and lawmaker Petar II of Montenegro, one of the nation’s greatest thinkers. An excursion that combines spectacular nature and profound culture — the perfect two-in-one experience.
Risan
Although it lacks the Venetian uniformity and charm of the other towns, Risan can proudly claim to be the first settlement on the shores of the bay. Its main attractions are archaeological, such as the prehistoric site of Lipci, dating back to the Bronze Age, and the Roman mosaics unearthed from an ancient villa. Beyond these discoveries, strolling along Gabela Street and visiting the Orthodox churches of St. Peter and Paul and St. Michael the Archangel complete an adventure worthy of Indiana Jones.
